Key negotiating tips:

* There are three types of repair businesses: dealerships, franchises like a Sears or Jiffy Lube, and independent shops. To understand your negotiating opportunity, you need to understand the business models/mentality of each: unlike most independent shops, dealerships and franchises typically use managed sales/service writers, (mechanics just perform the work), and have a more top-down management-set pricing system. Hence, with the independents, you’ll typically have a much greater opportunity to negotiate price. This doesn’t mean that all dealers and franchises are “unfair,” and all independents are “fair,” it’s just important to know for your negotiation expectations. You should still present your benchmark price or competing estimates to all three: it’s a competitive market and, even at a dealer, not all is set in stone.

* Negotiate before any work is done, when you still have the power to go elsewhere. Never assume you’ll be able to haggle after the repairs are completed. The shop can refuse to return your vehicle until your bill is fully paid.

* Ask for the “fair repair” price you’ve identified. Show your AutoMD.com print-out and/or the competing estimates. If the shop refuses to budge on an estimate that’s too high, tell them that you’ll go to another shop.

* Mechanics will often argue they’re not authorized to approve the lower price. Ask to speak to the person who is. If they can’t produce that person live or on the phone, then politely tell them you’ll need to take your business elsewhere.

What to Do When You’re at the Shop (Or While Your Car is Being Repaired)

When you’re at the repair shop, ask as many thorough, intelligent questions about the repairs that need to be done, and physically present all your research. The more interest and intelligence you show, the less likely it is that the repair shop will try to overcharge or push unnecessary repairs on you. Your best protection is being informed and involved. Never ask questions like: “Do I need a tune up?” or “Do I need new tires?” It sends a strong signal that you’re uninformed, and serves as an open invitation for a shop to recommend services that you don’t need.

* Know your vehicle’s manufacturer recommended service schedule before you go in so that you know whether or not your vehicle is due for one of the major services, such as tune-ups, oil changes and tire rotations. Stick to that schedule—not one the shop may present/recommend.

* Answer any questions the repair shop has, but don‘t volunteer unnecessary information. Avoid saying things like “This car is used by my young daughter,” “We’re going on a long road trip,” or worst of all, “Just fix whatever you think it needs.” This is analogous to giving someone permission to charge away on your credit card.

* NEVER allow your repair shop to “repair as needed.” It’s an invitation to get ripped off. While the majority of reputable shops are honest, there have been documented incidences of shops damaging parts and then charging car owners for repairing them.

* Establish your rules upfront: nothing is to be repaired until you have seen the broken or worn part, and nothing is to be replaced or fixed until you have given your permission to do so. If you leave the shop’s premises, ask the mechanic NOT to begin any repair(s) without contacting you.

*Once you sign an estimate, they must adhere to it, and no work should be done without your authorization.

* Ask the mechanic to test drive the vehicle with you—so you can explain exactly what you’re experiencing, hearing, etc. A thorough test drive can make the difference between a right and wrong diagnosis.

* It would be ideal to physically be at the shop when they’re diagnosing – and even repairing—your vehicle. Staying put makes it harder for the shop to perform unnecessary repairs, but most of us can’t realistically do that, However, don’t do approvals and business over the phone. If they call you with extra repairs, demand a detailed explanation, and then check with the AutoMD.com fair price estimate to make sure the new estimate makes sense. Go back to the shop and talk to them directly and ask to see the physical evidence.

* Whether you stay or have to leave, you should always ask to physically see each diagnosed problem. You often have a legal right to see damaged parts. This ensures two things: One, they actually did replace the part (and didn’t just clean the original part up and charge you for a replacement), and two, that the part actually needed to be replaced.

* Always request upfront that you will want all your old parts back—before any work is done. In certain states, like California, this is a binding request. If you come back later and ask for your old parts, many shops will have already disposed of them. The market is being deluged with cheap parts from China. Request name-brand replacements and ask to see all the proposed parts’ boxes before they start.

* Ask if any recommended repairs could safely be postponed. Some things are a must (to keep you safe and/or prevent further damage to your vehicle), but distinguishing between what’s critical and what you can wait on can save big bucks.

Glossary of Common Repair Terms

Because the auto industry speaks its own language, here’s a brief glossary of common repair terms:

Aftermarket Parts: Parts not made by the manufacturer.

Flat Fees: Services that don’t get broken down into parts, tax, labor costs.

Labor Description: A detailed written description of repairs and/or services.

Labor Rate: The shop or dealer’s hourly rate to work on your car. (Note: when you use AutoMD.com’s local shop finder—the average hourly labor rate for the relevant shops in your area is included in the listing).

Labor Time: The number of hours it will take to fix your vehicle.

Miscellaneous Charges: Can include, but not limited to, things like shop supplies (chemicals, hazardous waste disposal fees, waste oil, etc.

OEM: Original Equipment Manufacturer. This designates manufacturer-approved parts specifically built for your vehicle.

TSBs/Technical Service Bulletins: Instructions provided by the manufacturer for known concerns on your vehicle—not to be confused with an official vehicle recall.